Visit Tregaron and the surrounding villages and stay in bed & breakfast accommodation:
Tregaron, Ceredigion. Sturdy George Borrow, on his tramp through Wild Wales in the l850s, thought Tregaron had the air of a small Andalusian town set against dark mountains. Tregaron certainly seems a place apart, at the top of the Teifi valley, with a suggestion of the wilderness that lies hidden in the hills behind. It is proud of its Welshness. The centre of the little town is the square before the early 19th century Talbot Inn, in which Borrow stayed. The square contains a statue of Henry Richard (1812—88), M.P. for Merthyr Tydfil and known as the Apostle of Peace from his work for international understanding with the Peace Union, the forerunner in Victorian days of the United Nations. Tregaron's other famous man was of a different character: Twm Shon Catti (Thomas Jones) who lived about 1530-1609. Twm, known as the Wild Wag of Wales, was born near Tregaron, and a dubious tradition made him the illegitimate son of Sir John Wynn, the North Wales magnate. He seems to have been a two-sided personality bard, scholar, landowner on the one hand; practical joker, wit, highwayman, and general scallywag on the other. His career belongs as much to Llandovery and Ystradffin as to Tregaron. The children of Bartholomew Evans (Plant Bat) earned an unenviable reputation as robbers in the 17th century, but this did not prevent their father from being buried in the church in 1684.
The church is dedicated to St Caron, now known to be a saint of Irish origin in spite of local legends. The building stands on the mound in which St Caron is supposed to have been buried. The churchyard is oval, which in Wales usually indicates the great antiquity of the site. The tower is 14th century, but the aisle-less body of the church has been rebuilt. The North chancel window has good modern glass.
About 1 mile North of Tregaron is the great local curiosity — Cors Goch Glan Teifi or Bog of Tregaron, the remarkable bog through which the Teifi cuts a deep course. The bog is 4 miles long and 1 mile wide with a depth of over 30 ft in the centre. It is claimed to be the largest peat bog in Britain. The Cors Garon was formerly two large lakes, impounded behind a glacial moraine at Tregaron. They were drained as the outlet level was lowered by the post-glacial Teifi. The bog is a Nature Reserve, white with cotton-grass in late summer.
The Iron Age hill-fort of Carreg-y-Fran stands above the town ½ mile to the North East.
Behind Tregaron lies the great upland area that, for want of a general title, is marked on some maps as the Cambrian Mountains, although the title is never used locally, each section being given its own local name. This wilderness runs South of Plynlimon for nearly 30 miles. It used to be called the Great Desert of Wales but the desert has been tamed by the plantations of the Forestry Commission and their rough roads. There is still some land left for the sheep but the days are passing when, for example, William Williams (1698—1773) of Panty-Seri could be known as the King of the Mountains, with a flock of 20,000 sheep. Faced with an action at law, this Job of the West boasted: “I will maintain a seven years' lawsuit with only the breechings of my sheep's wool”. But the mountain road eastwards from Tregaron over to Abergwesyn can still give a feeling of utter remoteness. Llyn Berwyn, the lake on the summit of the pass into the mountains, will soon be surrounded by the growing trees, but the narrow road rises and falls across the lonely heads of valleys. In the upper valley of the Camddwr, reached by a track from the Tregaron—Abergwesyn road that turns South 6 miles from Tregaron is the solitary chapel of Soar-y-mynydd, to which the worshippers used to ride on horseback in the days when the hill-farms were still inhabited.
Nearby towns: Aberaeron, Aberystwyth, Lampeter
Nearby villages: Abermeurig, Blaenpenal, Bronant, Capel Bettws Lleucu, Caron Uwch, Cellan, Cilcennin, Cribyn, Cwmann, Ffaldybrenin, Gartheli, Llanafan, Llanddeiniol, Llanddewi Brefi, Llanfair Clydogau, Llangeitho, Llangwyryfon, Llangybi, Llanilar, Llanrhystud, Llanwnen, Llanycrwys, Lledrod, Pencarreg, Penuwch, Pontrhydfendigaid, Pontrhydygroes, Rhandirmwyn, Silian, Strata Florida, Talsarn, Temple Bar, Trefilan, Ysbyty-Ystwyth, Ystradffin, Ystradmeurig
Have you decided to visit Tregaron or the surrounding villages? Please look above for somewhere to stay in:
- a Tregaron bed and breakfast (a Tregaron B&B or Tregaron b and b)
- a Tregaron guesthouse
- a Tregaron hotel (or motel)
- a Tregaron self-catering establishment, or
- other Tregaron accommodation